February Makes 2020
This was a busy month both at work and with sewing projects, I attended a training session in Barcelona and also had a chance to visit some fabric stores there. Fabric shopping in Spain is a whole experience. The fabric shops themselves all three that I visited were like mini department stores! I will be writing a separate post about them.
A total of 8 sewing projects got completed, we did have the half term break which helped 🙂 Get yourself your favourite hot or cold drink, sit back, relax and enjoy my February 2020 makes
Double blocked skirt
I had this Falternrock (pleated skirt) pattern by pattern company for some time and had made an initial mock and put it away. I read this sewing blog by Gagaya handmade and was inspired, I had originally brought this pattern to make a Rockmacherin -esque skirt, these beautiful hand made skirts are out of most people’s budgets, these are made from the best wool fabric for winter and a mixture of cotton prints for summer. The skirts fasten at the side with rouleau button loops. I am yet to attempt making such a skirt, in the meantime the pattern fits for the vision I had for this blocked gathered skirt. Although the pattern is for a pleated skirt you also have the option of sewing gathering lines and gathering the skirt. For the skirt body I chose a viscose mix damask jacquard fabric from Pound Fabrics and the boarders are a plain lightweight viscose from CheapFabrics UK. I used interfacing for the waist and bottom band.
However I came to know I should have used a thicker fabric as the waistband crumples quickly after wearing. The skirt design sits lower on the waist, however after trying it on I thought it suited better at my natural waist sew I stitched the sides a little bit adding exposed seams to the otherwise perfectly finished waistband. For the fastening I placed an invisible zip at the centre back.
Wool skirt I
I copied a pattern from a RTW wool skirt I had, I liked the fit and loved that instead of being fully lined it was lined until the middle panel, although side seams are exposed the seams going across in a curve are concealed. The invisible zipper didn’t come out as smooth as I would have wanted it too, a good press did help reduce the bumps. To make the pattern pieces I traced around the skirt and adjusted to my measurements. Like my other wool skirts I overlocked the hem edge, turned up 1.5 cm with iron on hem tape and reverse blind stitched by hand.
Wool skirt II
This has been a loving make, as before cutting the fabric, I always took it out for a project then put it away as it was too pretty to cut. A felted fabric with machine embroidery and print another fabulous find from Maybachufer Fabric market in Berlin. I drafted this skirt pattern with A-line back and symmetrically rounded front panel. I placed a side invisible zipper. This allows the skirt to be worn with a variety of looks, my favourite is low back high front hem ☺️. Hem as Wool skirt I.
I made my Doris skirt by Missusu patterns in midi length with a denim look birds print French Terry fabric and a relief stretch fabric. The skirt was a quick sew, and the instructions for all the different looks you can sew with this skirt are clear and easy to follow with lots of photos and diagrams. I tried on the skirt before sewing the waistband and found I did not need a swayback adjustment. I didn’t overlock the overlapped layers of the waist band to the skirt as I cannot put too many layers through my machine. I used a 0.5 zig zag stitch for the overlapped section and overlocked the remaining waistband.
Scuba skirt quick sew
After making my Dorris skirt I quickly sewed up this gorgeous floral skirt, with the same relief stretch fabric covered over elastic, similar to my quilted skirt (January Makes) I added front waist darts and also needed them at the back to improve the fit. A leather needle size 110 worked well on stiching this fabric.
The gorgeous scuba fabric is from Coalville fabrics, you can buy fabric here (In the UK) through their facebook group, fabrics are posted in the group during the week which can be purchased directly and also there are fun live auctions almost weekly on a Sunday. If facebook is not your cup of tea, Coalville fabrics are also considering a website I will update here when this happens.
Cowl neck top
A third make using the navy relief stretch fabric which I picked upa the Yorkstr stoffemarkt in Schöneberg, Berlin. This market is open every Saturday and has a small section of fabric stands and a haberdashery, one of the stands has a great selection of faux leather in every colour and texture you can imagine.
I drafted this cowl neck top by splitting and spreading a basic t-shirt pattern, as I wanted more drape I spread mine a bit too much to rescue this and not have as much of a plunging neckline 🙄 neckline I sewed a section of the neckline to each shoulder seam to rescue my top, whilst lessons have been learnt I am happy that this is a wearable top! While there are many tutorials out there on making a quick adaptation to sew a cowl neck, I like this step by step bluprint tutorial as it also includes how to draft the facing. This cowl neck top matches well with my floral scuba skirt.
During my trip to Barcelona I brought this lovely printed faux suede fabric from Julian Lopez fabric store. I purchased 1.5 meters and as the pattern was multidirectional I was able to snuggly place 4 panels in alternating arrangement plus the 2 X waistbands to get a skirt with generous flair. Again as with the scuba I used a size 110 leather needle to stitch this fabric. I used this YouTube faux suede skirt tutorial Mondberg_TV to draft my pattern, which was clear and easy to follow. Similar to my wool skirts I turned up the hem with iron in hem tape, this time I made sure to keep the heat setting below medium and used a cotton fabric on top of the hem to protect the fabric as I ironed.
Viscose velour dress
Another rescue sew, this dress started of as a cowl neck, and as I was adjusting the shoulder seams they became too narrow. There is a RTW raglan short sleeve dress that I have, and know fits well, using that as a template I self drafted the sleeves and adjusted the top part of the pattern to fit the sleeves. This gorgeous fabric is a viscose/polyester elastane mix and has a sutle stretch which gives a great fit, another great find from Maybachufer market in Berlin. After isewlation is over I intend to write a post about fabric shopping in Berlin so make sure you keep checking back for updates.